If you guys are using the touch plate that came with your machine, chances are you're using this one:
![](https://www.static-src.com/wcsstore/Indraprastha/images/catalog/full//80/MTA-12172210/oem_cnc-tool-setting-touch-plate-mach3-router-mill-for-engraving-machine-blue_full01.jpg)
If so, congratulations- you have one of both the worst and the best touch off plates made.
that's weird to say, huh?
If you want to disassemble your touch plate (aka CAD) go right ahead. there is nothing difficult about it or restoring it... if it works 'good enough' for your purposes, well, that's good too... you can leave it be.... however, if you want to turn that thing from a consistency of maybe 95% and accuracy to maybe .05 to 99.9% and .003, read on.
the design is pretty dang good on those things- except for the anodizing. that anodizing can cost you connectivity and sometimes a bit... the wire lead that inserts into the casing is held with two set screws... this is another problem... the spring rides in an insulated/isolated sleeve and the final coil takes a right at 10 o'clock and shoots toward 2 o'clock... this is an issue... the screw that attaches the magnet extends through the casing and maybe .25" into the spring basin, and when that coil takes that right? it's 'hoping' to make contact with that screw.... and that's how this thing works. out of the box? it's not a very good device. I stopped using mine about a year ago altogether- opting for manual z zeroing and limiting my accuracy to .5mm which is the difference in lowering between z- button punches...
it worked okay... but at some point my spoil was going to get cut up to a degree it would have to be replaced.
i'm tired of replacing spoilboard all the time- like, once every two weeks or so... furthermore, i'm tired of dialing the toolpath to skim .02 and watching it cut over a 16th".... so.... I fixed both issues.
first off, the CAD/Puck/touch off plate... instructions follow:
- disassemble it.
- remove the set screws holding the wire lead and carefully pull the wire out.
- using wire strippers, remove some shielding from the end of that wire (the end that goes into the CAD housing)
- twist that wire back into a fine tight configuration.
- break out your drill- select a bit that fits the hole the wire inserts into and leaves just a touch of margin around the perimeter.
- start warming up your soldering iron.
- get your solder ready to go.
- drill through the casing between the end of the hole the wire fits into and the spring's cavity/tunnel. through the 'wall' if you would.
- run your wire through the hole it's intended to use, but all the way into the spring's tunnel (it'll be at the bottom if you drilled nice and level)
here is where the approaches vary... y'all are smart folks, I'll let you decide how you want to proceed... if one way I'll offer is better than the other, I can't figure out where or why...
way one:
- solder the wire to the base of the casing/bottom of the tunnel making sure the bead line comes into contact with the base of the spring.
way two:
- introduce a washer- one small enough to fit snugly at the base of the tunnel and with space enough the magnet screw can pass through. solder to wire to the washer.
way three:
- expose enough wire that it can be pulled through the top and a loop formed that can be tucked back into the tunnel and fit snuggly against the base and the walls of the tunnel.
way four:
- (what I did) loop around the base of the spring with the wire, snugly, and drop a bit of solder on it.
then:
- reassemble the puck/cad/touch plate.
now, your accuracy just tightened up like a ducks backside when it plops on the pond.
then..... there is another thing.
the button on your CAD is likely scarred from touching off with sharp tools... V-Bits with points instead of flats are notorious for this. that should be smoothed down with fine grit sandpaper- try not to take anything off and for the love of all that's hold don't use a grinder... you want a flat and even surface on that button... afterwards, measure the stack height of your CAD... they're supposed to be 43mm, but they can surely vary some... get a good solid measurement of it. repeat it and get the same.
there is, yet, two more things... you've got to confirm your stack height for the puck/cad in your system. You can find it under machine set-up, or you can back-up your profile/settings using 'system setup' and then 'backup settings' (select to save it to your thumb drive)... either way, the setting you're looking for in the file or using the pendent is "feeler gauge height"... if accessing using the file method, it's easier to just do a search for "43" in notepad (USE NOTEPAD, NOT WORDPAD AND CERTAINLY NOT WORD OR ANY OTHER WORD PROCESSOR!!!).... change that 43.000000 to whatever the measured height of your CAD is...
now, IF YOU WANT, there is something else you can do- it adds a few seconds to job setup, but, it further increases the accuracy and keeps you from making new divots on your CAD's button.... ask me how and I'll share... I don't know how much interest there would be so i'll save it for another post.. you can see it in action in the video below.