that's the way... and, you can either get the dial indicator and do it the scientific way, or the way i prefer- which is far easier and just as accurate..
get something flat and known to be flat underneath the spindle head... a 123 block is perfect- something with more footprint is even better. lower the spindle head less the collet and retaining ring to JUST above the flat thing....
remove the spindle cover....
don't remove those bolts- just unseat them... not even loose, just unseated...
you may find if it's just slightly out you can tighten one side more than the other and correct it... if not, try to walk it in in this way anyway... loosen the opposite fastener and tighten - like degrees of turn, not percentages.... look at the gap between the spindle head and the flat thing... once satisfied use the torque sequence of "an ever increasing circle" to cinch them down... 'monkey' tight NOT 'gorilla' tight. I don't know the actual torque values, but i know you don't want them so tight they either stretch or break. while you're tightening them make sure the gap doesn't change.
run the Y axis in your spoilboard with a surfacing bit no more than .02 deep... two rows... same with x... witness marks are gonna happen, but you shouldn't be able to catch a ridge with your fingernail at all... if you can, do it over.
sounds painful but it's actually a fairly fast process. for what it's worth, i've never heard of anyone having to add/remove shims- just re-cinch or adjust as described... these things need tuning from time to time just like any other piece of equipment, and usually when tram comes significantly out of tune it's because a bolt/fastener unseated. it usually happens fairly early on in a machines career- like in the first year or 500 hours of operation- and a tune up simply removes the slack created by using it.
